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Volvo B10m Engine Technical Manual

 
Volvo B10m Engine Technical Manual Rating: 8,8/10 9447 reviews

Volvo B10M Mk I Operator's Manual, Specifications Section Volvo B10M Operator’s Manual Specifications & Wiring Diagram I did not have access to an English language version of the Operator's Manual. This is not a reproduction of the original English language Volvo B10M Mk I Operator's Manual.

  1. Volvo B10m Engine Technical Manual Full

The Volvo B10M is a mid-engined city bus and coach chassis manufactured by the Swedish automaker Volvo between 1978 and 2003. It succeeded the B58 and was equipped with the same 9.6-litre horizontally mounted Volvo diesel engine mounted under the floor behind the front axle. Singapore Bus Service (SBS Transit) purchased 977 units between 1988. Volvo B10m Engine Technical Manual Instruction book for operation driving and maintenance of a volvo b10m mk i bus. Owner s manual saab 9 3 m2001.

It is a synthesis of the following Volvo publications:. B10M Mark I Operator's Manual, French edition. B10M Mark II Operator's Manual, TP 9029/1 English 4500. Volvo B58 Operator's Manual, TP 2003/1 English 2500.

2.80. Volvo Service Bulletin 3-37-18, Wiring diagram for B10M from Chassis No. 503, May 1980 It does not include any official Volgren coachwork information. Back to the Volvo B10M Operator's Manual Contents Page DATA PLATES SPECIFICATIONS INDEX LUBRICATING SCHEME WIRING DIAGRAM 78 Data plates DATA PLATES When contacting the dealer concerning your bus, or when ordering stock parts, always quote the chassis type designation and the serial number. In the matter of the engine, gearbox or rear axle, the designations and serial numbers should also be stated.

Volvo b10m engine technical manual full

The chassis type and serial number are stamped on a plate at the very front of the left-hand frame member. The engine type designation, part number and serial number are stamped on the top of the engine block behind the injection pump. Type description and serial number of the gearbox: Voith automatic transmissions: on a plate attached to the upper surface of the gearbox. ZF and Allison automatic transmissions: on the right-hand side of the gearbox ZF manual: the type designation and serial number are stamped on a plate fixed on the left side of the gearbox. The final drive part number, serial number and reduction ratio are stamped on a plate on the right-hand side of rear axle casing.

The plate showing the vehicle's Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM): comes with the chassis 79 Specifications SPECIFICATIONS NEW INTERNATIONAL MEASURING SYSTEM To meet the needs of technicians, and to nationally standardize measurements a system was finally established in 1960 and was given the name SI (System International d'Unites). The Volvo Corporation has been introducing the SI-units into its new publications since 1972. Up to the time of its exclusive use, the SI-unit will be indicated first followed by the former unit in brackets. The largest new units are: Output is given kilowatts (kW) instead of horsepower (hp) 100 kW = 135 h.p.

Force is given in Newton (N) instead of kilograms force (kgf). 100 N = 10 kp. Torque is given in Newtonmetres (Nm) instead of metres-kilograms (m.kg). 100 Nm = 10 kpm.

Speed is given in revs per second (r/s) instead of revs per minute (r/min). 100 r/s = 6,000 r/min. Pressure (in fluids and gases) is given in kiloPascals (kPa) instead of bars.

What's one of those?;). The only electrical signal my engine needs(once it's running) is the voltage to hold open the fuel supply valve on the pump! There must be a value for the advance when the engine is idling and I can't see why I could not adjust the advance buy rotating the pump while the engine is running and lighting up the timing marks, or am I missing something fundamental? To me, at least, it seems that setting the timing with a dial guage is akin to setting the static timing on an old petrol engine by twisting the dizzy until the points begin to open.

I would have thought a timing light would have been far more accurate as it is on a petrol engine. Then again, if I had a dial indicator and not a timing light I may think the opposite;) Regards TFB.

What's one of those?;). The only electrical signal my engine needs(once it's running) is the voltage to hold open the fuel supply valve on the pump! There must be a value for the advance when the engine is idling and I can't see why I could not adjust the advance buy rotating the pump while the engine is running and lighting up the timing marks, or am I missing something fundamental? To me, at least, it seems that setting the timing with a dial guage is akin to setting the static timing on an old petrol engine by twisting the dizzy until the points begin to open. I would have thought a timing light would have been far more accurate as it is on a petrol engine.

Volvo B10m Engine Technical Manual Full

Then again, if I had a dial indicator and not a timing light I may think the opposite;) Regards TFB lol mike. At the moment I cannot think of any diesel pump that you can adjust with engine running and I have not seen any figures for timing diesels this way. Common rail diesels are all electronic, ecu controlled with solenoid operated injectors. Hmm.unsure why you mention Common rail, ecu's etc.

As they are not applicable to a D24T. I can see the timing light would not even be able to trigger from a common rail system. However, the timing must have a static advance of n degrees and the management system (or in my case some spinning weights, I imagine) will alter this value depending upon the conditions and demands placed upon the engine. The static advance is usually very similar to the dynamic advance at idle, perhaps a few degrees difference. I can't see the base value being 0degrees as this would allow no time for the fuel to burn, which however quick does take a measureable amount of time, before the piston travels downward. As I understand it, the optimum time for ingnition or injection is a few degrees before TDC, so that the fuel is completely burnt/burning at TDC, thus generating the maximum amount of pressure inside the cylinder. I found some info in an Autodata book that gives the value of 14 degrees @750rpm for n.

This does seem quite advanced (I am used to petrol engines at about 6-10 degrees), but if it stops raining tomorrow I'll have go and see what the timing is currently set to and then try advancing/retarding it to 14 degrees and see what difference it makes to the car. It would be nice to get rid of the clouds of smoke I sometimes leave behind me, although it is VERY useful if I am being tailgated on the motorway;) I'll try and scribe some lines on the pump housing and bracket before altering anything, just in case it all goes wrong! Ooooh, bad idea! If you review the correct procedure, you'll note that timing is adjusted by loosening the camshaft sprocket with cam positioned at TDC by a locking plate and then positioning the pump sprocket to the position that causes a specified lift of the pump, and then locking the cam sprocket in place. It is NOT performed by rotating the pump body. Unlike the short duration of a spark event, diesel fuel is injected over a period of time - starting prior to TDC and continuing after ignition has commenced. Also significantly different is that as engine speed rises and injection begin point is advanced, the end point is simultaneously delayed.

This longer injection cycle results in a greater quantity of fuel per injection as engine speed rises. For example (specs from the VW 1.6L/Audi 2.0L NA version of the same engine, plunger set to 0.6MM at TDC); At 1000 RPM injection starts at 5° BTDC and ends at 13° ATDC. Injection event is approx. 18° rotation. At 2000 RPM injection starts at 7.5° BTDC and ends at 20° ATDC. Injection event is approx.

28° rotation. At 3000 RPM injection starts at 11.5° BTDC and ends at 23° ATDC. Injection event is approx. 34° rotation. At 4000 RPM injection starts at 13° BTDC and ends at 27° ATDC.

Injection event is approx. 40° rotation. Your timing light senses the noise created by the sudden pressure rise in the injector pipe but there is no telling exactly what point in the injection stroke is actually triggering the light. Trust in the concept that the engineers at VW and Bosch might have known exactly what they were doing. The dial indicator is a tried-and-true method of setting the VE injection pump. Thanks for some good info and an explanation, much appreciated. It was interesting to hear about the duration expanding that much with engine speed.

I will take issue on one point though. Re-reading the Volvo manual it does tell you to 'slacken pump mounting bolts and turn pump inwards to obtain correct value', if the reading is low and outwards if the reading is high. I would guess that there are too many variables for the timing to be spot on by just locking off the cam and the pump sprockets. Looking out of the window, I don't think I'll get a chance to try anything today. I am interested in seeing if the timing light does trigger on a consistent part of the injection cycle. If is a consistent trigger, then the timing marks should appear to be static under the strobe, if it is inconsistent then the timing marks should appear to bounce and jitter all over the place. I'll try attaching the transducer to various parts of the pipe to No1 injector and see if that also makes a difference.

I have no doubt that the Bosch engineers know far more than I do, but I doubt that they enjoy experimenting as much as I do! And yes, I am fully prepared for it to all go hideously wrong and end in tears (as it so often does!). Well, the skies have cleared for half an hour.

So I've been out and tried making a measurement. I cleaned up the flywheel with a little toothbrush sized wire brush and highlighted the zero mark with some paint from the daughter's 'Paint with Barbie' kit;) although tippex would have worked better. The strobe was lighting up the timing mark in a very consistent manner (as Mapleleafer said I don't know what part of the injection cycle was triggering it). I tried putting the piezo-electric transducer on various parts of the pipe and using various torque's to clamp it with and the reading remained consistent. Using the offset function of the light, the timing was reading at 15.2 degrees with the rpm at 780, which is similar to the value in the Autodata book. I will try and get hold of proper dial indicator and fitting(I do have a standard dial indicator, but I couldn't mount it in a suitable way) and verify the readings. Lippincott crne prep guide. Though the ideal way to verify things would be to set the timing using a dial indicator on several cars and then make readings with the light and see if they matched.

The likelihood of getting a few D24T's together to do this is remote though. Thanks for that. Funny enough I have managed to get hold of a Bosch Manual for the VE pump and while it doesn't give the timing value for a D24T one paragraph did grab my attention 'The diesel-engine tester is necessary for the precise timing of the injection pump to the engine. Without opening the high-pressure lines, this tester measures the start of pump delivery, injection timing, and engine speeds. A sensor is clamped over the high-pressure line to cylinder 1, and with the stroboscopic timing light or the TDC sensor for detecting crankshaft position, the tester calculates start of delivery and injection timing.' Which does contradict some views that diesel timing light shouldn't be used. The only problem that I have is that I forgot about the transducer still being on the pipe and it fell off on the road somewhere and I've yet to source a replacement.

Link to the manual below.very techy in places, but interesting Regards TFB. In my quest to find out all about these engines I could on the net, I did come across one forum/site, can't remember which now, which said that the pump timing on these is often set simply by rotating the pump until the engine runs at it's best, so obviously there are a lot of people out there who are also unable to access this technical information anywhere and have to do it so basically. According to Ross Wynberg from USA it should be set to 0.44 but he was working on a USA spec vehicle. He seems to have had a lot of experience with these engines, see well worth a read of all his blogs.